Monday, February 27, 2012

SASSOON ACADEMY |HOT ROD| AUTUMN WINTER 2012 COLLECTION

 

INSPIRATION This season’s collection, Hot Rod, draws inspiration from the work of Swiss photographer Karl Heinz Weinberger whose gritty images depicted the stylishly disaffected Zurich teenager’s dubbed halbstarke or ‘half strong.’ Whether drinking, fighting or kissing, Weinberger’s photographs show us that adolescence is a time of instinct: tribal, emotional and sexual. It’s an age that glitters with promise, when insecurity turns to bravado, when passion is for the here and now rather than some far-off adult future. 

THE FASHION In Weinberger’s evocative images the trappings of American rebel youth are cut and re-mixed; denim jeans and jackets intricately customized; belt buckles formed out of horse-shoes or the head of Elvis; zips replaced with screws, bolts and chains. These were adolescents playing tough guy using the classic iconography of rebellion with their own conspicuous twist. 

THE CUTTING TECHNIQUE The theme of teenage rebellion is expressed in hair shapes that take the quiff as a jumping off point for innovation. Shapes are elongated from back to front then broken up into irregular texture. Strips are cut through the top by sliding the fingers along the hair shaft whilst continually moving the scissor blade. The narrow shapes at the temples and long backs streamline the shape – it’s a bold take on an iconic fifties look. 

THE COLOUR TECHNIQUE Colours are monochromatic and sectioned into flame shapes echoing 50s customized cars and strategically placed to flicker and dance as the hair moves. Tones graduate from strong to soft – pewter and silver blend through to white; cashmere brown glides subtly into cream, designed to give the illusion of slicked-back fifties pomade - like oil on water. 


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