Balayage How-To from Behind The Chair

Soft, Face-Framing Balayage

Chelsea Caruso, of Gerber Salon in Keyport, NJ, is no newcomer to balayage’s sister technique of hair painting. So when a client who wanted to change up her color—but wasn’t committed to frequent maintenance—came into her salon, she knew exactly what to do! This look is bold around the face, but soft throughout the rest of the head and lends itself to growing out beautifully. Check out Chelsea’s color formula and tips below, and see more of her stunning work on her Instagram at chelscaruso!

Color Formulas

Formula A (base): Wella Color Touch equal parts 7/89 + 5/3 + 6-volume developer (1.9%)

Formula B (highlights): Wella ILLUMINA 1 oz. 7/81 + ½ oz. 6/16 + 6-volume developer (1.9%)

Formula C (lightener): Wella Blondor Bleach + 40-volume developer

Formula D (toner): Wella ILLUMINA 10/1 + 10/38 + equal parts Wella Koleston Pastel Cream Developer

Application
1. Apply Formula A to whole head to achieve a smokey, yet golden brown base.

2. Working from the back toward the face, apply balayage using classic hand and brush technique.

3. Where shadow color is present, apply Formula B from mid-shaft to ends, creating a gradient effect.

4. Lighten using Formula C. Remember: for balayage and hair painting, the consistency of your lightener should be thick—think toothpaste consistency. That way, it adheres to the hair without dripping.

5. Once application is complete, drape saran wrap over the head and enclose the colored hair within to retain heat. Process for about 40 minutes.

6. Shampoo and treat with Wella Blondor Seal & Care Post-Lightening Treatment for five minutes.

7.  Apply Formula D and let process for a minimum of 10 minutes. Helpful Tips to Keep In Mind:

·        Remind your client that investing in her hair means investing in quality products. Using a color-supported shampoo and conditioner—such as Wella Brilliance—is key.

·        For her blondes, Chelsea suggests investing in a purple shampoo like Clairol Shimmer Lights to help prevent brassy tones while away from the salon. She also tells her clients to use a heat protector before performing any heat styling.

·        Chelsea recommends her clients return from time to time for a toner or glaze to keep color looking healthy.

The 5-Minute Video That Will Make Anyone a Cut-and-Color Expert

FOR YOUR EYES ONLY Sure, the hottest new hair color or cut of the year might be calling your name... but nailing the look means more than tearing out a cookie-cutter magazine photo to show your stylist. In order to achieve truly tailor-made tresses, experts actually analyze your face shape, skin tone, and eye color in ways you'd never expect—and we let you in on those pro secrets in the latest Drab to Fab Webisode, starring International Creative Directors, Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton. In this hot, new instructional video, our team illustrates how easy it is to assess style just like the industry aces—explaining, for example, how a blue-eyed blonde might call for cool, icy highlights... while green eyes typically shine with more golden strands. "It's these very subtle differences that truly harmonize a look," says Damien, who also takes you inside the thinking behind haircuts-as-sculpture... explaining how length, placement of the part, fringe, and layers should differ from client to client. The best part? Armed with these high-end tips, you'll be able to walk into any salon like a pro in the know... and walk out with a personalized look that's made-to-order amazing! WATCH NOW

BREAKING NEWS: Industry Mourns the Passing of a Pioneer

Redken Founder Paula Kent Meehan Passes Away in Beverly Hills

Paula Kent Meehan, the founder and leader of Redken Laboratories, passed away Monday, June 23 at her home in Beverly Hills. The former actress created and led what became one of the first, modern, U.S. professional haircare companies. Redken served as a template for distribution, marketing and education for the many companies that followed, and countless beauty industry professionals began their careers at Redken or with associated organizations. 

“We have lost a true legend in the professional haircare industry. The legacy that she has left sustains the brand today,” says Redken US General Manager, Leslie Marino. “Paula created products and education programs that propelled the industry’s transformation. Her pioneering ways will be missed but her spirit will be in our hearts and minds forever.”

In 1960, as a young actress and model, Paula Kent joined a chemist named Jheri Redding and created Redken Laboratories in California. In search of products that she could use on her sensitive hair and skin, Kent and Redding pioneered “The Scientific Approach to Beauty,” setting out to develop formulas that would be gentle and naturally compatible with hair and skin. Their research led to the three guiding principles of the company—protein technology that mirrors the hair’s natural composition; an acidic pH of 4.5-5.5, which complements the natural pH of hair and skin; and products recommended exclusively by licensed cosmetologists in professional salons. Redken was launched with three products and an intensive education program for hairdressers about the chemistry of hair and skin, which enabled them to better serve their clients. As a result, Paula was instrumental in elevating hairdressing from a career to a profession.

"I had dinner with Paula several times at her house and in fact, met Vidal Sassoon for the first time over dinner while I was serving as a worldwide judge for the Global Salon Business Awards. Paula was such a trailblazer. There was never a woman before her, and will never be a woman after her, that will change our industry the way she did. She made a huge impression on me. She was smart, bold and opinionated—she was a legend," notes BTC's Founder and Creative Director, Mary Rector-Gable.
In 1971, Paula Kent married John Meehan, an advertising executive for trade magazines. They met when he paid a business call to Redken. After they married, he brought his experience to bear in helping her grow the company. He became chief executive officer while she served as chairman of the board. During the ‘70s and ‘80s, the company was a leader in product technology in the U.S. and abroad.

In 1993, L’Oréal USA purchased Redken Laboratories, Inc., and following the Northridge earthquake, relocated the headquarters to Fifth Avenue in New York City.

"We have lost a guiding light today. Paula Kent paved the way for so many of us in the beauty industry, recalls Beth Minardi, Founder of Beth Minardi Signature. "A woman with guts, smarts and courage, I learned so much from her. Many changed lives will be her legacy—and her guiding light will continue to shine if we all continue what she has begun."

After selling the company, Paula remained active in a number of Beverly Hills-based business ventures and founded the Global Salon Business Awards. She was also a notable philanthropist. Her wide-reaching philanthropic work most recently included major donations to the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts and the Beverly Hills 9/11 Memorial Garden. She served as president of a pet rescue and adoption foundation she opened in Beverly Hills called Pets 90210—The Pet Care Foundation. An avid animal lover, Meehan was also a supporter of Woofstock. In May 2014, Paula purchased and became the Chairman of The Beverly Hill Courier and The Beverly Hills Fine Arts Theater.

"I am deeply saddened to hear about the passing of Paula Kent Meehan, co-founder of Redken. I know that Paula was well loved and respected. As we all grieve, know that we are remembering and honoring the memory of Paula Kent Meehan, a legacy in the industry. I am assured that we will be comforted by our memories and her love for the industry. May her heart and soul find peace and comfort and be comforted by the outpouring of love surrounding Paula. Our heart grieves over what is lost, yet our spirit rejoices over what she has left behind," says Sam Villa, Redken International Artistic Director.

Details of a memorial celebration of Paula’s life will be forthcoming.

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